Polyaspartic floor coatings
A fast-curing, UV-stable resin that stays flexible through Arizona’s temperature swings instead of yellowing or lifting. It is our default system for a reason.
01 / WHAT IT IS
A resin family built for speed.
Polyaspartic is a resin coating in the same broad family as epoxy and polyurethane, but it cures through a different chemical reaction — one that finishes in hours instead of days. That speed is not just a scheduling convenience. A fast, controlled cure produces a denser, more chemically stable film, which is a large part of why polyaspartic resists abrasion, chemicals, and UV better than a standard epoxy resin at a comparable thickness.
We install it as a pigmented base coat under a flake or solid-color finish, and as the clear topcoat over almost every system we build, including some epoxy base coats. It is not a specialty upgrade at Kratos. It is the resin we reach for first on interior and exterior concrete alike, and the one we recommend against only in narrow, specific cases — covered on our epoxy page.
Because it cures so quickly, polyaspartic also tolerates a wider window of application temperature and humidity than epoxy, which matters in a climate where a summer morning and a summer afternoon can differ by 20 degrees before we have finished a floor.
02 / IN ARIZONA
Heat and sun, mostly.
Two things define an Arizona floor: heat and sun. Polyaspartic resin is engineered to stay chemically stable at higher slab temperatures, which is what prevents hot-tire pickup — the softening and lifting that happens when a warm tire rolls onto a coating that cannot handle the heat. Standard epoxy is far more prone to it. Polyaspartic also holds its clarity and color under direct UV instead of yellowing and chalking, which matters on any exterior slab, or an interior one that sees sun through an open garage door for years.
The monsoon adds a second test: sudden humidity swings and, on exterior installs, direct rain within hours of a system going down. Polyaspartic’s fast cure gets a floor through its vulnerable early window before weather has much chance to interfere, which is one reason we can install exterior systems on a tighter schedule than an epoxy-based one would allow.
03 / THE SYSTEM
Bottom to top.
The standard flake polyaspartic build, bottom to top. Solid-color and exterior variants swap the middle layers; grind and primer stay the same.
- 01
Diamond-ground slab
The existing concrete, mechanically profiled to open the pores so the coating bonds instead of sitting on top.
CSP 3?
- 02
Moisture-mitigating primer
Seals vapor drive from the slab before it can push a finished coat loose from underneath.
2–4 mil?
- 03
Polyaspartic base coat
A pigmented, UV-stable resin layer that gives the flake something to bite into and the floor its color.
8–10 mil?
- 04
Full flake broadcast
Vinyl chips broadcast to full refusal, adding texture, slip resistance and hiding minor slab imperfections.
Full broadcast to refusal?
- 05
Clear polyaspartic topcoat
The wear layer. Locks the flake in place and carries the abrasion resistance, chemical resistance and gloss.
4–6 mil?
04 / OPTIONS
Where the resin gets used.
05 / TIMELINE
Hours, not days.
- 01 Same visit
Inspect & test
Slab condition, cracks, and moisture are checked before we schedule anything.
- 02 ~1–2 hrs
Grind
Diamond grinders mechanically profile the concrete so the resin bonds into it, not onto it.
- 03 ~1 hr
Base coat
The pigmented polyaspartic base goes down, often with a flake broadcast into it while wet.
- 04 ~1 hr
Topcoat
A clear polyaspartic topcoat carries the abrasion, chemical, and UV resistance for the life of the floor.
- 05 24–48 hrs?
Cure & return to service
Foot traffic, then vehicle or heavy traffic, once the coating has fully hardened.
06 / COST
What polyaspartic runs.
Typical range
$4–$7?
per sq ft installed
Polyaspartic pricing follows the system built on top of it — flake, solid color, or an exterior finish — and moves with square footage, slab condition, and color complexity, the same as any other system on this site.
Full cost breakdown by system & sq ft →07 / FAQ
Questions about polyaspartic.
01 How is polyaspartic different from epoxy?
Both are resin coatings, but polyaspartic cures in hours instead of days, stays clear and stable in direct sun, and tolerates a wider temperature range during application. Epoxy can still be the right call in specific interior, low-UV situations — see /epoxy-flooring/.
02 Does the installation smell, and do I need to leave the house?
There is an odor during application and while it cures, similar to other resin coatings, and it is strongest in the first hours. For a garage, that is rarely disruptive to the rest of the house; ask us about ventilation for any interior living-space install.
03 Why is polyaspartic your default system instead of epoxy?
Arizona heat and UV are hard on standard epoxy. Polyaspartic holds up to both without the yellowing, softening, or hot-tire pickup that epoxy is prone to in this climate, on almost any interior or exterior floor we install.
04 Can polyaspartic be used outdoors?
Yes — with an exterior additive package for UV stability, slip-resistant texture, and, for pool decks, chlorine resistance. See /patio-pool-deck-coatings/ and /driveway-walkway-coatings/ for the exterior systems specifically.
08 / GET A NUMBER
Get a number, not a pitch.
- 01
Send photos or book a visit
Whichever is faster for you — both work.
- 02
We measure and inspect
Slab condition, cracks and moisture, on-site or from your photos.
- 03
You get a written quote
A firm number and an install date, not a range that moves later.
Prefer to talk? (623) 000-0000?